Suspension 101
Suspension is easily one of the dark arts of the motorcycle world. You either get it or think it’s a mystery best left to your local track guru. Unfortunately, this has led to a lot of misinformation. One common myth is that you should adjust your suspension solely based on tire wear. While tire wear can tell part of the story, the real adjustments need to be made based on how the bike handles with your inputs. After all, it’s how the bike feels under you—not just what your tires look like—that truly matters.
Truth is, suspension tuning can seem intimidating, but once you dive in, you’ll wonder why you ever hesitated. The beauty of suspension adjustments is that nothing is permanent. As long as you know where you’re starting from, every change can be undone. My go-to method is counting the clicks (or turns depending on the bike) as I turn the adjusters all the way in (clockwise) and then back them out to my starting point.
Pro tip: NEVER FORCE YOUR ADJUSTERS! They should turn smoothly and easily, or else you’re in danger of breaking something expensive.
In its simplest explanation, the inside of the suspension has valves inside which the suspension oil is pressed through. Making changes to the compression and rebound adjustments is opening or closing the valve to change the rate at which fluid can travel through these valves. By allowing more or less oil through the valving the suspension will move faster or slower (harder suspension or softer suspension).
What Are the Adjustments?
Your adjustments may look different or be located different depending on your bike, consult your manual before making any adjustments.
• Preload: Preload is how much your suspension compresses under the bike’s own weight before you even sit on it. Adjusting the preload will affect your bike’s ride height.
Fork Preload Adjustment
Standard rear preload adjustment using a spanner wrench.
Higher end bikes (or upgraded shocks like this Ohlins TTX GP) often let the rider set the shock height separate from the preload adjustment, in this case you may see this style adjustment using a standard socket instead of a spanner wrench.
Preload is used to set your sag, which is the amount the suspension compresses under the bike’s weight and with you on it. This is the baseline for all other suspension settings. Increase preload to reduce sag (the bike sits higher), or decrease it to increase sag (the bike sits lower). Setting sag helps your suspension stay in its sweet spot. However, if you’re riding at a high enough level, you’ll eventually run springs that, on paper, are too stiff for your weight, and sag numbers won’t always line up. That’s OK—proper performance is the priority, not the textbook sag.
• Compression: Compression controls how fast or slow the suspension compresses (shortens) when you hit the brakes or a bump. Some bikes have high-speed (fast) and low-speed (slow) compression adjustments—this isn’t about how fast you are traveling, but how fast the suspension moves. Slow compression is like braking—slow, controlled suspension movement. Fast compression happens when you hit a bump, where the suspension reacts quickly.
Fork Fast Compression Adjustment
Fork Slow Compression Adjustment
• Rebound: Rebound controls how fast or slow the suspension returns to its original length after being compressed. Think of it as the “bounce-back” adjustment. This adjustment is often labeled Tension, or you may see “TEN” on your adjuster, as you can see in the image below.
Fork Rebound adjustment
How to Tune Your Suspension
When tuning your suspension, remember this key principle: you’re adjusting based on how the bike feels while riding, not just what your tires look like after a session.
Compression-Related Issues:
• Front Suspension: If you hit the brakes hard and the front suspension dives down, or even bottoms out, its a sign that the front compression is too soft.
If you hit the brakes and the bike understeers (won’t turn) into a corner, the front compression is probably too stiff. It’s not letting the front suspension compress enough to let the bike turn properly. In this case, softening the front compression will help, assuming you are running the correct spring weight for your weight and riding style.
• Rear Suspension: If you roll on the throttle coming out of a corner and the rear squats excessively (like the bike’s getting comfy), your rear compression is likely too soft. Tighten it up to keep the rear from sagging too much under acceleration.
Below are just a few of the common issues with your compression being out of adjustment:
Rebound-Related Issues:
• Front Suspension: If you go hard on the brakes into a corner, and after you release the brakes, it feels like you have to wait forever for the bike to let you turn, your rebound is likely too slow. The front isn’t extending fast enough, making the bike sluggish and unresponsive.
• Rear Suspension: Rebound is also important in keeping the rear planted. If the bike feels like it’s bouncing around or taking too long to settle after bumps, your rebound might be too slow.
Below are just a few of the common issues with your rebound being out of adjustment:
Final Tip: Tire Wear Still Has A Place
While handling is your primary guide, tire wear is still a valuable tool. I personally tweak my rebound the most based on tire wear, but only once I know the bike is handling how I like it. Too much rebound (slow extension) can cause the tire to overheat and wear faster, while too little (fast rebound) can lead to inconsistent grip. Understanding what you’re changing and why you’re changing it is crucial to getting the most out of your bike, if you go in blindly, you could make the bike ride worse.
In the end, suspension isn’t sorcery—it’s science, mixed with a bit of feel. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your settings, and remember, every change is reversible. The more you ride and adjust, the more in tune you’ll be with what your bike is telling you.
